Built-in hotplates; a large menu with dishes and ingredients we didn’t know were edible; gruff, efficient staff - this canal-side Chinese restaurant in King’s Cross has authentic written all over its bare brick walls (in Mandarin, of course). We settled in with a coupla Tsingtaos and a massive bowl of boiled seabass in hot chilli oil. It arrived bubbling and packed with mouth-numbing Sichuan pepper - the tender chunks of seabass hiding under a sea of fragrant red chillies. The broth was rich, deep and, as the waiter warned, pretty spicy. With that as a centrepiece, we ordered some beautifully sweet and sticky claypot aubergines, some slightly over cooked soft shell crab, and a much needed portion of sour, garlicky smacked cucumbers which cut through the numbness and the oil perfectly. Going from spicy broth, to sweet aubergine, to crunchy crab, to sour cucumbers is a loop we’d happily be stuck in forever. But with a menu so large, we’re sure each successive visit we can find a new delicious cycle.